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Found 37 results

  1. Looking for a Individual throttle body setup for a S15 SR20DE, Or an adapter plate to suit 4AGE throttle bodies.
  2. SR20DE build

    Think of building my n/a SR, nothing special just after a bit more power without a massive price tag. Looking at camshafts, preferably drop in. (http://www.rhdjapan.com/jun-high-lift-camshaft-nissan-sr20de-t.html) (https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/?q=Camshaft%20Sr20De) Slightly bigger injectors and a remapped ECU just to start. If there's anything I'm missing please feel free to add. Main problem on having is identifying exactly which car my Sr came out of. All help is greatly appreciated. If there is anyone selling a built n/a SR I'm interested, please comment
  3. s13 P Plate Build

    Starting a little build on my s13. get my license back soon so getting her ready for then got it in pretty rough condition needed some love and care.. had a mate help give her a good clean and replace a few parts car is pretty much stock so a great base to start interior is all there has HUD display and s14 seats apart from that just needs a good tidy and some bits re trimmed body is pretty strait but my first thing on the list is a new paint job along with a body kit ordered a BN style kit made by TeamJetSpeed here are some pics of the car before i got started..
  4. car used to idle at 750-800 before manual conversion But now after converting it it idles at 1.5 - 1.9 Was driving in the rain and it went back down to 750 but no idea why? I've checked the engine bay I don't think there's anything damaged what could it be?
  5. WTB Sr20de parts

    I'm after An ECU, Dizzy and loom to suit an sr20de
  6. Hey there, I've got a 180sx running a non turbo SR20DE and as the title states I'm looking for some info on the stock exhaust particularly the front pipe. So far I've got a set of Tomei extractors which come all the way back to here... This leaves a gap about a foot long between the end of the manifold and the cat, I assume I need some sort of a front pipe to go in there but I can't seem to find one anywhere and everyone I've spoken to only seems to know about front pipes for a turbo which obviously won't fit. Other than cutting and welding up a custom piece, does anyone have any suggestions on where to go from here? Any info would be greatly appreciated
  7. s13 sr20de engine

    Hi, Looking to buy an s13 sr20de engine, preferably with the a manual gearbox as well. Looking to rebuild it so condition doesn't have to be perfect. No need for loom or air boxes etc. Im located in Sydney so in or around Syd would be preferable.
  8. After a few tings: S13 front Suspension, brakes , knuckles etc. SR20DE or SR20DET with Gearbox, ECU, Loom, Tail shaft, Brake booster and Res
  9. S13 S14 and R33 parts! In Wollongong. S13 SR20DE, unknown km's. Will come with ecu/loom, and boltons. Was weeping oil from rocker covers, will come with new rocker cover gasket. $400. ~~~~ D1 catch can $30 S13 corner light with blue overspray, main mount is intact, rear mount broken, $20 S13 SR20DET 3" stainless dump pipe $60 S13 3" stainless decat pipe $40 S13 driver side OO[] headlight, glass is perfect, has broken inner mounts. $40 S13 castor rods with nolathane bushes $20/pair S13 SR clutch, exedy stock replacement, heaps of meat, $50 S13 SR20DET stock radiator, held water fine. $30 S13 oldmate's custom fender braces, no idea on fitment. $50 S13 rear driver side LCA, $40 S14 rear seats, perfect condition, $50 S14 3" catback, $50 S14 bare rear subframe, non-hicas, $50 S14 BM44 BMC $50 S14 veilside rear pods $50 S14 complete URAS body kit, drift condition, $50 S14 widebody front guards $150 S14 vented frp bonnet, holes for bonnet pins, $150 R33 cusco front strut brace $80 R33 mirrors, white driver side, black passenger side, $20 each Falcon thermos $50 Saber FMIC with angled piping/piping to suit non-vct SR, and tial blow off valve. $250
  10. WANTED: N/A 180 / Silvia

    Hi guys, Im after an s-chassis Due to not yet having my full licence I am after an N/A would prefer SR20 manual but im easy, it does have to be complied though. Im not really fussy on what it is i would prefer another 180 but wouldn't mind a Silvia s13, s14 or s15, i dont mind if its a bit banged up and has a few dents, fading paint or even if you've sprayed it with a pressure pack can in your back yard, aslong as the chassis and frame members are straight and its not full of rust. I am on a tight budget though may consider a rolling chassis if it doesn't need much work. PM me what you've got cheers
  11. James' S13

    Hey guys! new to the forum but been involved with a lot of s-chassis guys now for a while basically when I got this car it was a complete virgin, i had it, started getting it pretty, and crashed it, now got it the best its ever been and I'm loving it The pics will give you an idea of it all andddd now The Autostrada modenas are 16x9+8 and 16x10+9 from here on I'm going to lower it a bit more when i get the strut tower edge out of the way I've got a slit spoiler/underspoiler to go on as well and will get an exhaust altered to fit through that (blast pipes :3) I've acquired a manual box and the slave and master, getting the line and the rest of the stuff to do the conversion asap
  12. Car: Nissan Silvia S15 (JDM Model) Year: 2000 Odometer: 145XXX km Engine: Autech SR20DE (200HP) Transmission: 6-speed manual (very smooth, no crunches) Rego: 1CLE514 (Registered in WA) Rego Expiry: In 1 month JDM model, imported in 2006 (by previous owner) Mechanically unmolested and drives perfect. Near-new tyres, heeps of tread. P plater friendly silvia. The Autech model runs the Spec S SR20DE engine however it has been modified by Autech to produce a total of 200hp (much more power than a normal SR20DE). This is through a different ECU tune, extractors, higher lift and duration cam shafts, sodium filled exhaust valves, higher compression ratio and a lighter flywheel. The panels are straight however paint isn't perfect, has a few marks/scratches/fade. Bottom of the front bar is cracked (plastic weld easily) and boot lid has rust around the deleted spoiler holes (easy fix, just replace bootlid as they're cheap enough and common in the pewter colour). Price is firm and reflects the condition of the car (mechanically perfect however requiring attention on the outside). As it is located in WA (Banjup, 6164), freight to the Eastern States can cost between $1000-$1500. I can reduce the price by $1000 if I keep the motor/gearbox/ecu/loom, so you can drop in a SR20DET if you want. Will leave radiator/hoses/PS-reservoir etc in the bay, literally just disconnect from the motor allowing you to plug and play a turbo motor. Therefore transporting interstate would be as a rolling shell with all the JDM goodies. That's $8000 for a fully complete JDM s15 just without running gear (wouldn't call it a shell as the interior and exterior will be 100% complete).
  13. Hello All, I have a 1997 Type S 180sx, Came Factory with a SR20DE Manual. I have just purchased a Blacktop SR20DET from a S13. My issue is the wiring loom is not plug and play there is two plugs behind the passenger side headlight instead of 3 aswell the plus near the ecu is different. I can't get my hands on a TYPE X SR20DET Wiring Loom and Ecu. If anyone has one or knows how to put the type x plugs on the older style loom. Cheers. Slydin.
  14. I've got a 91 S13 with SR20DE, I done a big end bearing so I'm currently rebuilding, at some point I melted (and I mean melted) my knock sensor so I need I new one. I'm having a bit of trouble finding one as I'd really prefer to get a new genuine Nissan one, if anyone could help or point me in the right direction that would be really appreciated. Cheers, Curtis.
  15. SR20DE+T Conversion!

    Hey Guys, So I've got a 180SX that I purchased with a low comp SR20DET. Cranked but didn't turn over. Long story short it needed new pistons so I went and bought myself an SR20DE to +T. Now I've done some research, seen what's needed and what's different between an NA and a DET. What I am unsure on is what can be taken from my DET block and used on the NA. Necessities/What I've Got: - SR20DE - T28 BB - Braided Lines - DET Head - JDM S15 SR20DET Injectors - Tomei 1.2 Metal Head Gasket - DET Sump - Exhaust to Suit SR20 180SX - Rocker Stoppers - All Gaskets Ordered awaiting arrival As I stated earlier it is a factory DET 180. Now I'm unsure if there is anything I've missed, or what else I may need. Any advice would be appreciated Thanks
  16. Hey all, I have decided to convert my ca18de s13 into a sr20det. How I'm hunting down a ecu wiring loom and bits and pieces but what I really want to know is do I need to get a sr gearbox or will my ca box fit on to the sr? Also will I need to replace the engine cross member with one from a sr20 s13 or just replace the engine mounts?
  17. Marcus's Sr20 Ke70

    Finally thought it was time to put up my build thread. This is just me copy pasting what I posted on my rollaclub build thread. Btw this engine and gearbox was from the 'blingcommander' on this forum. If you haven't checked his 86 build out do so http://www.nissansil...howtopic=516392Expect it to be VERY long, sorry Some of the pics were too big to upload to the forum, so i linked them to my flickr account. ----25/03/13---- First a bit about me. My name is Marcus and I’m 17. I’ve been hooked on cars my entire life, it’s so true my first words were brooom broom, haha. At 12 my Dad bought me a 1981 ke70 from my step cousin. It sat in the backyard for 9 months and we never did any motorkhana’s like was ment so one night me and my mate snuck it out and went for joyride, 5 hours of fun ultimately due to some crappy circumstances and probably karma ended with this…. Needless to say it never drove again. But I'd got the ke70 bug, and even when a few opportunities came up to get another car I turned them down as I was determined to get another ke70. When I turned 15 for a few hundred bucks as that’s how cheap they were then I got a beige 1981 beige ke70. This is what it looked like when I got it. It’s at my dad’s place ‘Traction Tyres’ in Rowville where I currently work Saturday mornings. Immediately I installed the wheels from my last car, tore out the interior, took off front bumper, gutted rear bar and reattached with cable ties, made a fly off handbrake and painted on the go fast racing stripes http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream In the next couple weeks my dad got the diff welded and an exhaust made, 1.75 inch with resonator and muffler. It had to be legal volume to compete in motorkhana’s which were the goal for the car. http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream Before it made a motorkhana we took it to a farm in Nagambie for some bush bashing, gave the car hell; it was rough and wet This is what it ended up looking like. Took it up a second time, this time it was dry and when an acquaintance of mine took the wheel the diff blew up! So could the day get worse? As it turns out yes it could. On the way home a ratchet strap snapped and the car half fell off the trailer. Luckily only minor damage, broken grill, slightly dented sills (straightened them back out) and a cut in the sheet metal at the back of the car (where I tied the excess of strap too). So began the hunt for a new diff, a friend of my dads who works at a wreckers came through with what was thought to be a t series, I also got xt130 lca’s. It came with a one piece tailshaft to suit a ca18det, 2 rooted shocks and 2 cut kings falcon springs. On top of that it was minispooled, all for $400! Sent the diff of to be rebuilt due to the unknown condition and what we here back is that it’s actually a shortened r31 skyline diff; Score! So installed the lca’s and diff making the stock tailshaft fit and some new rear shocks as well, leaving the stock springs in because it is was to be used off road and other than not having a handbrake it was all good Didn’t have a shed so it sat out back and one night in a hailstorm the driver window shattered so got another. Nothing much happened until our shed was built. I was now 16 and soon after I got the itch to do something to it so I bought a new steering wheel, pedal covers and gear knob. For Christmas 2012 I got the best present ever! A huge KingChrome tool chest! It’s f**king awesome Had a 32/36 weber off my dad’s Holden Gemini race car as he was going to twin 40 DCOE’s so I bought an adapter plate and a family friend helped fit it up including cutting and rewelding the throttle wheel to make it work. I then just had to make up a mount for the throttle cable and one for the return spring. Here’s some pics… It competed in its first motorkhana, even without a handbrake I came first in class and if I remember correctly 5th outright, not bad at all. I’d always planned an engine conversion so I used all my saving to buy lots of bits and pieces for a conversion and an s14 sr20DET from an s13 with manual gearbox, loom and crossmember and that’s when my conversion started, just kidding!!!! I was ripped off on the motor and never saw my $2k again >:< Anyway…… Over the next couple months I saved up a few hundred bucks and bought ae86 strut’s with hubs and brakes, Techno toy tuning steering arms and tierods as well and they’re lower control arm kit. Due to be being too difficult for me to get right the kit never went anywhere and still sits in a box on my shelf but the struts were installed with a mate one late night in the shed. With no spring compressor it became a big job, uninstalling the lower control arms and castor rod mounts. It’s also probably good to point out that there was still no power in my shed and only 1 workers light running off an extension cable to the back of the house I then cut out the rust in the rear arches and installed flares due to the slight increase in track and knowing I was always going to lower it with some bigger wheels. Because for now the car had to have stock suspension I mounted them as low as possible to make it have less monster truck guard clearance. Also The shed now got power and lights, w00t! Chiseled out the last of the sound deadening. Found a set of cheviot 13x5.5 rims for only $100, so I bought them, cleaned them and painted them Going to be used for burnouts. I turned 17. Next I bought some SAAS reclinable seats (this was a few months later), a hydraulic handbrake and brake proportioning valve. I sent it off to PowerPlay in Cheltenham who prep race cars to install them, including making new seat mounts lower down so I could sit as low as possible (I’m 6’2). Very happy with their work it’s top notch. Unfortunately the r31 calipers don’t like hydraulic handbrakes and they seized so in went commodore calipers with new flexible lines. After another couple months sitting around it entered its second motorkhana. Came first in class again and 3rd outright, could possibly have won outright if not for the car stalling during a 180 spin into reverse, but very happy none the less We then come to January 2013, no more school this year as I left after year 11 and on my daily eBay searches came up a complete sr20de conversion kit out of an ae86. Went all the way out to the country to see and test drive it as it was still in the car, I was happy with it apart from a gearbox that seems on its way out, so I bought it along with the JDM EFI fuel tank and lines as I couldn’t be bothered with my surge tank and bosch 044 (another item purchased for the originally intended DET). The engine mods consisted of rocker stoppers and oil cooler with filter relocation. It was running the factory ecu on a modified loom so I was happy that the engine would be fine for much time to come given the bulletproof nature of them. It also had an rb20 gearbox for an improved shifter position in the corollas. This was sold to me by blingy from nissansilvia.com, Check out his 86 build: http://www.nissansil...pic=516392&st=0 In the time before it arrived I pulled the dash out and am going to use the top dash cover to make a custom dash, I removed the heater and also painted the rest of the interior trims, installed plastic rear windows and gutted the rear doors too. Can't even tell they're plastic http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream The conversion arrived the next week and proceeded to sit for another month. I wanted to use the 4k in one last motorkhana and see if I could blow her up after a killer burnout but due to my dad not having enough time to take me to a motorkhana and my mate coming around one night trying to convince me to get started it never eventuated. So that very night 2 weeks ago we set out to pull the motor out. First off I removed the mud caked exhaust and couldn’t resist giving it a rev….. Damn it’s loud! My mate videoed it, doesn’t give it justice. Check it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOp7u7IlY6Q I plan on doing some vids soon so subscribe if you want to make sure you see them. Started at 9:30 we got the motor out by our 3am goal. Removed the battery tray as the battery is being relocated to passenger rear seat area. (It was a 38 degree day Next I installed the modified front crossmember and hammered the trans tunnel for clearance. My mate came over and as we proceeded to install the engine and gearbox the borrowed engine crane gave out, luckily slowly enough that it didn’t break the sump. Modified - Top Standard - Bottom Because we got annoyed we couldn’t do anything we took all the springs out to see how it would sit, sadness + slammed = HAPPY My Mate Aaron Thumbs up of approval The next night the new engine crane arrived and I worked into the morning to fit the engine myself. Because of how the engine is mounted and it’s clearances I ended up having to drop the crossmember, position engine down, bolt up the engine to crossmember and then lift the engine with crossmember into place. Over the next couple days I didn’t do much, cut out the new shifter hole and the top radiator support beam and installed the springs back in, this time using the falcon springs. Ordered a new radiator with shroud and fans as the one that came with the conversion was beat up after a front end hit. It came with wrong shroud so they’re sending me the right one. It puts the shifter in the absolute perfect spot! Also bought solid engine mounts/bushings as I planned on solid mounting everything. On top of that I got sick of working with a tiny ass jack so bought a new one; it’s going to make life so much easier Most importantly I ordered my wheels from America! I modded the ae86 tank with the ke70 filler neck to make it work. Just need to replace the fuel feed line with the one from the 86’s lines; I’ll do this on a hoist. I installed the solid engine bushings only to find I am going to need to cut and reweld the mounts as they weren’t accurately done which wasn’t an issue with rubber bushings due to them taking up the slack. A gearbox crossmember will need to be made too; all these structural things with be easiest done on a hoist so in a couple weeks, after Easter it’ll be off to work. My wheels arrived at work in only 4 business days, very impressed. They’re Flat Black XXR 527’s in 15x8.25, 0 offset. I bought six as I wanted to be able to swap the rears quick plus have spares if any got damaged. I mounted up 2 Yokohama AO50’s (The fastest R Spec tyre in the world, no question) and 4 AO48’s. Yes grip tyres, as the first shakedown of this car will be at Winton for circuit testing not drift. I also needed the right size tyre to relocate my flares and sort out clearances; they’re 205/50/15’s. Unfortunately I couldn’t bolt them up as I need tuner style nuts, so I ordered some in both the Nissan thread size and Toyota due to the rear end swap. You can tell they look sweeeeeeeeeeeet anyway! Finally going to fill my guards Bolted up the tailshaft from the diff I bought over a year ago and it fits, score! Then fitted up exhaust, just going to need to make one mount about mid-way for extra rigidity. Now you’re up to date with where I’m at. A lot got done in 2 weeks! In the coming weeks I be trying to sort out the wiring, battery relocation and other stuff before it goes to work. I currently flat broke so as a friend of mine would say, I need to “just put on my job hat, my job shoes and find a job” before expensive shit gets done. The build is happening in two stages; Getting the engine conversion sorted and using it for a bit, then a strip down for a complete rebuild. So what are the future plans? -Tubbed Front guards -Seam weld entire car -Fill and smooth engine bay -Paint engine bay and underbody in truck bed coating -Paint interior shell -Roll Cage -Rest of Techno toy tuning kit including 4 link, adjustable lca’s, traction brackets and tension/castor rods -Shockworks coilovers with custom spring rates decided after corner weighting the car -AJPS roll centre adjusters; height will be decided after measuring the roll centre with all the new parts adjusted and working out where I want my roll centre. -2 tone paint job; gloss red on the bottom and satin black on top The Plans after all this is completed and used for say a few months or a year is a sr20det swap and to make my own widebody kit and possibly look at production of it. Sorry for the absurd length of the start post, wish I’d done it earlier and it would have been a lot shorter. The next ones will be I promise. Now here is the end, Hope you enjoy the thread and updates will be constant ----25/03/13---- Mad Marcus
  18. Hey guys, I have been doing a bit of research but still can't decide on what I am going to change/upgrade cooling wise. I have an N/A SR20DE S13 and have had some overheating problems which led to the engine dying. The engine is currently being fixed but I just want to make sure that it doesn't happen again. I was thinking of getting a bigger aluminium radiator and also and oil cooler kit but I'm not sure is that would be the right option as it's only and N/A engine. I'm just looking for some advice from people who have done any cooling mods to an SR20DE and also the cheapest yet most effective way to do so. Please feel free to comment as I want to gather all the information I can Thanks, Curtis.
  19. Oil light kept popping on, stopped driving my car. Did big end bearings and mains Got cams and rocker arms and shims all replaced. Ran it for a day no worries, just drove it then. Light went out on idle then came on when I came to the first set of traffic lights. Oil pump was working fine when it got put back together Any help is appreciated
  20. Hey ladies & gents some of you would have possibly seen other threads discussing my problem (Car randomly started idling really high)along with a few others and one of the resolutions was changeing the ECU Just about to grab another ECU to test if this is the issue before i move to the next thing and this popped up on evay... so im wondering if anyine knows if this will do the trick if my ECU is playing up? or should i just grab another SR20DE ECU? PS i dont want to tune my DE as we all know there really is no real gain but cheaper than another ecu if it does the trick... if someone has an ECU laying around in sydney i can use to test if mine is shagged would be awesome? SR20DE / SR20DET Daughter Board - Tune Your Factory ECU! **Clearance Sale!** http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=SR20DE+daughter&_sacat=0&_from=R40 SR20DE/T Daughter Board This daughter board allows you to tune your existing standard ECU with minimal soldering and electronics knowledge required. Installation instructions can be found at http://www.vizztech.com.au/products.html'>http://www.vizztech.com.au/products.html Using software such as TunerPro (available here http://www.tunerpro.net/) together with a suitable EPROM/EEPROM programmer you can adjust virtually any variable in the standard tune. Two tunes (maps) can be utilized by using this board, with a simple jumper/switch arrangement enabling you to switch between the two. (ie. your tune and then a copy of your tune as the second map with a reduced rev limit for valet mode, or a tune for higher octane fuel, or e85, etc). The boards will come complete with 2 x 256k EEPROM's fitted and a 40-pin header that will be required to be soldered into your ECU for the board to plug in to. The EEPROM's will come pre-programmed with the factory S13 SR20DET tune in BOTH map locations. If you wish for the second tune that is stored to have rev-limits or speed limits removed or adjusted please add this information when you click the "buy now" button. More custom tuning can be done if the correct information is provided or if you supply your own (.bin) file/s from TunerPro or other map editing software. The boards can be fitted professionally for you also if you wish, this will incur an additional cost and you need to contact us directly to have this service. Technical support will also be available via email using the contact form at http://www.vizztech.com.au Please note, these boards are "in stock" and are "made to order". Please allow 1 to 3 business days from date of receipt of payment for assembly/testing before the boards are shipped out to you (this is subject to supplier availability). These boards should also fit the following ECU's - Nissan 180SX (S13) SR20DET (not suitable for type r and type x) - Nissan Silvia (S13) SR20DE & SR20DET - 240SX (S13) KA24DE - U13 Bluebird SR20DET - B13 Sentra SR20DE - P10 Primera SR20DE - J30 Maxima VE30DE - S14 Silvia SR20DET **early models only** - N14/N15 Pulsar SR18DE & SR20DE - RNN14 Pulsar SR20DET NOTE: If your ECU is not for an S13 Silvia SR20DE/T please message us with your ECU part number for verification that this daughter board will be compatible.
  21. So i was on my way home from work, police going other way, lights go on, quick u-turn, pulled over for what they say was just for a random breath test. Nek Minnut, 3 defects, tail lights tinted (fair enough), rear wiper not on (fair enough) and pod filter exposed, (it was really boxed with a 3-4sq inch gap, which to him was unsatisfactory.) So i've fixed up the tail lights and wiper and i went to buy a stock airbox today from a wrecker, problem is i own an s15 autech (NA:SR20de) and Spec R (sr20det) boxes don't fit apparently, and s15 autech boxes are to even bother looking for. Question 1: Does anyone have an autech s15 airbox in Sydney? Question 2: Do na s13 and s14 airboxes fit on an autech s15? Question 3: If Yes to question 2, does anyone have an NA airbox for me to purchase? Question 4: Do K&N Apollo filters fit on an NA S15?
  22. So I have a non-turbo S13 running SR20DE, my car constantly idles at 1500 rpm (and I mean ALWAYS) but I have also noticed that the engine temperature gauge or coolant temperature whatever its called never goes any higher than the first little dash even after giving the car a really hard drive. I think the reason for the high idling is because the car is constantly trying to warm itself up? I really dont know but either way I want to fix my temperature gauge, I would like to know whether you guys suggest getting a new temperature/coolant sensor, a new thermostat, or just get an after market gauge and hook it up separately? I don't really know all too much about this stuff so any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Curtis
  23. Hey Everyone, Been on here and JDMST for a while figured I should show you guys my bulid, hopefully you like it was SR20DET Auto then I switched it to SR20DE Manual plus a stack of other shit lol...here goes.......... JUST BEFORE A GOOD CLEAN CLEAN READY TO GO IN SOME DECENT GEARBOX OIL SR20DET REMOVED SR20DE JUST CHILLIN AFTER THE SWAP AND A WASH LOVE THIS PICTURE WOULD BE BETTER IF IT WAS TAKEN ON MY GOOD CAMERA NOT MY SHIT PHONE So I gave the bay a clean plus front strut brace, Alloy Overflow plus new pod filter and custom cover also a air guide just abovethe front bar Master Cyclinder died so replaced the whole lot Then I got Gktech Steering wheel Then made up a knob I got a 2 1/4 exhaust with cat and highflow muffler Ripped out some boot trim and installed the rear brace Then I got an ignition barrel light March 2012 (Want to do some serious upgrades, was starting to get bored with the car, was still in Year 12 :/ ) : Got some Front S14 lca's, uprights, hubs and calipers Then got a BM57 (1 1/16) off Manny 14mm Spacers Full set of S14 Stockies from a mate Got the front R32 GTR (Non-Brembo) Calipers and Rotors from Manny Rear R33 GTST Calipers, Rotors, Hubs and Handbrake Cables off some guy in smithfield Got my mate to make me my eagle adaprtor plate, just gotta drill the holes Chucked it all together Needed A Wheel Alignment Got a Subframe, removed bushes sanded it down then realised is was bent :/ Pretty much gave up on it Then got a toolbox Got some Kazama tie rod ends cause my front left one has a fair bit of play in it So, I got these cheap Then Yellow-Speed Coilovers came along This is apparently level -.- massive wheel gap up front, I need to get my guards rolled mainly at the rear so i can sack it all round\ Due to this So I got a guard roller and had a go at it Worked really well except we had to wind the coilovers back out because the guard roller was to big to fit in there. Plus the inside of the tyre had been rubbing as you can see in the image so we raised it up a bit so there was less camber, need to find a set of arms before I can slam it -.- Thanks to Jordy for letting me use his garage, was going to put it on his hoist but he already had his 1200 on it Makes working on any car a heap easier So got my Whiteline Sway Bars, forgot to post the front one ages ago, I won it in a Whiteline comp the rear I got off a mate So the Subframe was about to go off for powder coating and this is when I found out it had a slight bend in it plus some more rust... So I forgot about that one, was not going to bother with it anymore. Got another one, Non-Hicas off a mate so I can piss off this lock bar and Hicas tie rods that way I can run Toe rods, mate sand blasted it for me too Now I have to just get the time to take it down to be coated and decide on a final colour? Birthday is coming up soon, should be getting a full set of SPL arms and bushes. I got some mudguards off another mate dirt cheap gunna see how they look, not sure if they will suit with the current wheels maybe later on when I get some decent wheels. And I picked up this long block SR20DET came out of a mates S15, so I have two years to learn and build this once I finish off my subframe and adjustable arms and a whole heap of other stuff. Just couldn’t say no for the price... So I put the mudguards on, both front and rear Then I hunted down another Ca Lip and seen that I could put it on my SR Front bar Resprayed it in a flat back At Blaises (blaise_mx6) he owns that Z32 300ZX Then I started on my SPL adventure with some Solid Subframe Bushes Driving along my temp gauge went off, the temp was higher than usual the inline temp sensor was leaking -.- Pain in the ass so a GKTECH coolant neck spacer is on its way Got a hose kit seeing as I need to replace one. Another night I turn my lights on and one of the cluster globs died Have a whole set of leds coming Got an engine stand aswell So resprayed the subframe, primer, blue, more blue then more blue then a heap of clear Smashed out the old bushes, tried to put the new ones in had to use the vice as a press after freezing them :/ SPL bushes are pretty good the only issue I had was the rear two bushes would not clear the Toe Arm brackets so I shaved them down a little Waiting on Pete from JDM Obsession to get back to me about the SPL arms, can't wait till I get them Got a R200 off a mate, having a go shimming it my self pulled it down, more on this later Thinking about getting a half cage and putting it in with the trim in still like this... So I got a spare set of stock Rear LCAs of Jason, with this whole build I have tried to do as much bush removal myself with the help of mates but not taking it to a place to get done to keep costs down Tried to remove these tiny lca bushes was a prick at first but then we figured out a way Ball joints were easy So many ideas, burn it, drill out the center sleeve then burn it, in the end we got a tiny drill bit and drilled down the side got the jig saw in there cut out the center sleeve out and finally with a cold chisel, a 6 pound hammer and a lot of persistence smashed the outer sleeve away too. Sanded back, primer and some blue, still haven't put any clear on -.- SPL Arms arrived Got the R200 in the subframe! Never been happier to see a diff chillin in a subframe lol This thing put me through hell, I had this great idea I should shim it up as my current VLSD is so loose it is depressing in a SR20DE 180sx pretty much peg legging everywhere -.- So I followed a guide and ripped it down, added an extra 0.80mm shim from Nissan parts no. 38424-40F60 assembled it then went to go drop the center in, that was a c!@t then I bent a shim being rough so I dropped it off at bears in st marys he adjusted the back lash and did me a new shim Sits pretty neat, shame GKTECH haven't made some 180SX/S13 diff covers. Then that went in So, LCA's have new Super Pro bushes and new OEM Replica Ball joints pressed in, eventually going to get some SPL Rear Knuckle Bushes and Lockout kit ten fit the Lca's all at the same time But for now, my speedo was about 10% out so I purchased a Jaycar build it yourself kit, assembly was easy but install and setup was a pain because I snapped the LED off at 3am trying to install it because I really wanted it done, missus was ready to kill me :/ lol but all is good now Then I wanted more low to fill up the front guards so some mates and I lowered it Looks heaps better could go some more in the rear, in the end the front is still going to need a tad larger profile but meh for now plus I got Martin at Ground Zero to tint it, looks sick he did an awesome job at an awesome price, recommend him to everyone plus spaced the hood So this is how it stands at the moment, pretty happy besides the shocking front castor needs another wheel alignment asap bad -.- So I am about half way saving for rego, thinking about HIDS still dunno if I should go 3000k or 6000k? Got a tad distracted Cheers If you have made it this far thanks for reading, let me know what you think
  24. N/A Slider!

    Only signed up yesterday but I thought I would share My ride(s) Started off 3 years ago in a Onevia Brought it As a sr20de Auto, Coil overs and 18" Euro-lines. From there I Did alot of this! Then this So i brought this. 180sx bare shell, most of the interior. It is a bit rough. But perfect new project for a clean street car. Started Preping the shell and was going to make it look all pretty! But ran out of Funds! So i put it together and took it to the track!
  25. n/a 180sx

    hey everyone, been on here for a while looking around and thought i might put my 180 on here, owned it for about 6 months now and its my first car when i first got it appart from tail lights and skirts currently has: tein rear coilovers and not sure on fronts sr20de out of s15 autech shortend air intake battery in boot 2.5 exhaust drift works camber arms (not in yet) rays mesh 17x8 17x9 +24 nismo skirts origin carbon roof lip type x rear seats, passenger seat and door cards recaro sr4 drivers seat on bride rail dmax taillights momo steering wheel soon to come: type x front bumper type x rear pods nardi paint car is lower since this photo
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