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Found 208 results

  1. S14 Exhaust

    In need of an s14 exhaust, prefefferably from the turbo back. Let me know what you have either way.
  2. T28BB Turbo $200

    FS Genuine Garrett t28 Ball Bearing Turbo off JDM s14/15 silvias (2560R) small amount of shaft play is missing the clip of the wastegate arm that opens the flap, should be easy to source turbo is bare with no snouts pick up northern subs melbourne
  3. So I'm looking for an SR20det engine block for my 13 (which has a CA18 ATM, and I want to upgrade), if someone is selling one or can send me in the right way without the harsh charge that'd be great! ✌️✌️
  4. Item: SR20DET Tomei Type A valve springs. Description: Brand new in the box. Full set. Specs: http://www.tomeiusa....alvespring.html Price: $220. Location: Parramatta area. Willing to post?: Yes. Buyers expense. Contact: 0411420827
  5. [VIC] T28BB, s14/33/R32 stock wheels

    T28BB good condition, fins are in good condition, little movement but once oil is through it should be perfect turbo + hardlines, do not have snouts etc $300 s14 sr20 standard exhaust manifold with welded egr $50 R33/s14 stock wheels set one pair tread still has a few skids left other pair of tyres gone $100 r32 stock wheels, tyres no good $100 located northern suburbs
  6. Garage clean out

    Hi all, Cleaning out the garage and i have the following available. Located in Campbelltown, Prefer pickup but willing to post smaller items at buyers expense Negotiable to some extent but lowballers can eat a dick Front and rear height adjustable camber tops. Bought them for a project that i later stripped and sold. Ball joints still tight, didn't knock when in the car. Includes the spanners i made for them and spacers. Also includes a second set of rear threaded inserts with an 8x1 thread from memory to suit the koni's i had in the rear at the time. $300 Koni yellow adjustable front struts in s13 housings. Drilled to suit s14 knuckle. Travelled a grand total of about 200km. $200 Tuneagent s13 toe arms $100 Xforce 3.5 inch universal cannon, new in box $80 Nismo LMGT3's, 17x9 +20 all round, ok condition, pretty nasty rash on one rear but not very deep, minor rash on all the others. No buckles or leaks,missing the centre bolt thingys. Come with near new 235/45 f and 255/40 r tyres $1100 S14 manual diff, i think that makes it a 3.7? $50 S15 rear calipers, hand brake cables, sold S13 manual cluster 170k on it, $20 S14 Fronts LCA's $120 ono 2 pairs of 6 bolt drive shafts $120/pair
  7. For sale is a rb25 5 speed with sr20 bell housing fitted and steel 3rd gear selector fork. Bell housing was built be Eleventen Engineering in Adelaide. Check him out of Facebook he does heaps of these bell housings. I chose Eleventen because they use a proven jig to make sure everything lines up right. The box also has a aftermarket 3rd gear selector fork fitted, also built by Eleventen. This is a steel fork which replaces the week original alloy one. Comes with clutch fork, and specially modded thrust bearing carrier which aligns the box to the correct height for a Sr20 clutch. No shifter (pick up a rose jointed short shifter from eBay). This is one tough box for your Sr20 powered ride. Box is located in Beacon Hill near Dee Why on Sydney's lower northern beaches. $2300 represents good value - $1500 for rb box+ $150 sr bell housing + $500 for conversion + $$$ for labour + $$$ for billet selector.
  8. If ever you've compared a B&M/C's gearstick to the oem one, you'll have noticed the huge difference in throw, effort of movement and gear feedback. Flicking through gears with a B&M can be fun, but it gets annoying really quickly and can sometimes be hard to get out of the gate at WOT. Likewise, the oem stick has a smoother action and is less harsh on the box, but it feels like you're changing gears with a flacid horse cock. Cutting the thread off is dumb, whereas upgrading to a Nismo solid shifter is like paying $200 for the horse to get a boner. The cleanest and cheapest option is to DIY yourself a proper solid shortened shifter. Difficulty = 5 Where 0 is washing your dog, and 10 stopping them from rolling in the nearest poo. Time Required = Under 5 hours Disclaimer If you aren't confident or are still learning to cut/weld things, don't be a noob and risk breaking your only gearstick if it means that you can't get home/to work/McDonalds/strip club/etc. Buy a spare stick and work on that, or schedule some time in which you can get a replacment if you mess up. Also, be sure not to cut appendages off or set fire to yourself. Tools Required OEM Nissan gearstick Mig or Arc Welder plus protective gear Angle grinder with 1mm cutting discs Drill Variety of drill bits and grinding stones Dremel or drill with grinding stonecan use drill instead) Razor knife 3/4" mild steel washer Fibreglass resin + catalyst (optional) Masking tape Needlenose pliers Options and Issues If desired, in preference to welding you can instead fill the outer shell with a glue or resin. Fibreglass resin will NOT work for this. I have tried and the outer shell broke free after one day of usage, so you must use Sikaflex or something that turns solid and has incredible hold If you wish the stick to be heavier and slightly more solid (I guess?), you can cut the washer in half and weld just one side, fill the cavity with fibreglass resin, then weld the other side. Process Step 1. Remove gearstick from car. Refer to the manufacturer's Service Manual for instructions. Tape the thread with 4-6 wraps of electrical tape to protect it from damage. Step 2. Tape up gearstick boot with gaffa tape or something else that's fairly hardcore (i.e. not masking tape), wrap it with some grippy rubber gloves and clamp the shaft in a vice. Step 3. Use a 3-4mm drill bit to drill into the rubber at an angle (be careful to avoid rubbing the drill's chuck on the taped boot, or drilling through the shaft) and gradually separate the rubber from the outer shaft. You will find that some metal filings will be produced, but for the most part this doesn't matter. Even if you have a replacement rubber boot, I do NOT recommend using a torch and lighter fuel to burn out the rubber, as you'll almost certainly damage the plastic retention ring, and you won't have a spare for that. Step 4. Once the rubber appears moderately separated, either switch to a longer drill bit and plunge in deeper to ultimately remove the entire outer shaft, or save yourself some effort and cut off the section of outer shaft you wish to remove. In my case I prefer a fairly extreme drop in gear knob height, so I cut 30mm off. WARNING: DO NOT F**K UP. ONLY SLICE 5MM DEEP INTO THE STICK, AROUND THE CIRCUMFERENCE, NO DEEPER. If you cut off or cut into the central shaft, then you'll likely need a replacement. Step 5. Carefully slice the cut section at angles, then use multigrips to tear the cut section away from the rubber. Step 6. Use a razor knife remove the exposed rubber from the main shaft, then repeat Step 3 on the now-shorter outer section. Step 7. Now for the tough part. Using a combination of rubber drilling and twisting the outer shell (wear grippy mechanics gloves), remove the outer shell from the inner shaft. Do not try to hammer it out as it won't work, and don't try to clamp and pull it out as the shell will deform. Unfortunately it's just one of those jobs that takes time and effort. I have a very strong grip that I can maintain for extended periods of time, and still it took me a solid 5 - 10 minutes on the S14 gear stick I was working on for this guide (had it out in a few minutes when modding old S13 gear levers). If you have a weaker/normal grip just take your time and have frequent rest breaks in which you drill more and pick out pieces of rubber with needlenose pliers. Step 8. Use a razor knife and grinding stone bit to clean off the rubber from the shaft and shell, as well as smoothing-out any marks or damage from the bench vice or past use. Step 9. Cut the main shaft down to size (in my case to about 25mm) and then cut the end to a point. Slide the outer shell over it and cut/adjust the main shaft until it sits in the original position when fully-seated. Step 10. Grind off the galvanised coating from the 3/4" mild steel washer and weld it to the bottom of the outer shell. Smooth out the weld with a grinder. Step 12. Bore out the hole in the washer until the main shaft slides through it perfectly. Step 13. Mount the main shaft in the outer shell, seated as far in as possible, then weld it in place. Weld in small bursts to avoid melting the plastic/rubber, and so that you can quickly extinguish the tape which will catch fire every time. You must install it with the boot and plastic retention ring in place, positioning the ring flat-side up. If installing a new boot you could probably leave it off, soften it in hot water, grease up the shaft and slide it over once finished. The plastic ring however must be in place. You'll note that my welds aren't ideal as I was welding in short bursts, however by doing so I was able to keep it in check enough that it caused no damage to the rubber. Step 14. Weld some lines at the beginning of the taper on the outer shell, then grind them into rectangles using a 1mm cutting disc. The purpose of this is to create a bump stop to avoid the chasssis insulator boot from riding up high on the stick when retained using zip ties as normal. This is a somewhat optional step, however having run modded shifters like this for a fair while, I feel it's absolutely worth your time to do it. Unless you use something powerful like a hose clamp, or tap holes and run small bolts through the shell, the rubber boot will eventually ride up the gearstick. Step 15. Paint the gear lever and install. The chassis insulator boot will be more compressed and provide a little extra resistance, however it's not a big deal. The less you cut from the outer shell, the less compression on the boot, but I've been running a chopped lever for years now and I love the lower profile.
  9. Hi Guys, I've got a fair few parts I need to sell as I no longer have any silvias. All prices are negotiable within reason. 1. S15 injectors (480cc) with rail and loom $100 ONO Came off the car at the same time as the turbo. Perfect working order and come with complete loom and rail (no fpr). 2. S15 AFM $30 ONO No longer needed as upgraded to Z32. Perfect working order. 3. Recaro side mount rail to suit JZX100 $150 ONO Only just bought this but it doesnt fit my Sparco evo 2 well so im just going to floor mount it. Rail is in perfect working order. All items located in Rouse Hill, NSW, 2155. Pickup is preferred but will post at buyers expense. Any questions pm me here or SMS me on 0403858714. Thanks, Brett
  10. Like new ,I should still have the horn button.If not you can get them from ebay Pickups from Mt.Gravatt Brisbane.Make an offer if you need it Asking $150
  11. Updated, more pics, more items, more prices. Can't take very good photos atm, smashed my phone's lens. Yay! SR20 GKtech 3" stainless dump pipe $70 PE1420 turbo on S13 SR manifold $500 Momo dished steering wheel with boss kit $80 Prodrive GC-05A 17x8, 17x9. Brand new 215/45 and 225/45 $650 S13 SR20 gearbox, good condition, $350 S13 SR20DE, with intake, front half of exhaust. Bought for a conversion but really CBF with non-turbos. ECU and loom included. $500 S13 Tein rear coilovers $100 S13 GAB shocks with HKS lowering springs, rears are sweet, fronts are blown $100 S13 rear driver side LCA $40 S14 3" catback $50 S14 driver side mirror $20 S14 rear LCA $50 each S14 BM44 $50 S14 veilside rear pods $50 Bare S14/R33 rear subframe, non-hicas, $50 R32 GTR front brakes $300 S1 RB25DET - complete engine. Leaking oil from rocker covers, has blown exhaust manifold gasket. Unsure of KM's, was a replacement motor in this car. Previous owner had done timing belt, water pump. Complete with loom, afm, Tomei remapped ECU $1200 R33 mirrors $20 each R33 tein super street coilovers $600 R33 GReddy fmic and piping kit, $350 Falcon thermos $60
  12. S14 parts for sale

    hey guys i have some parts from my s14 series 1 silvia that i am selling due to not needing them anymore Item: sr20 exhaust manifold Condition: used Price: $50 Item: S14 series 1/2 Boot lid green in color Condition: decent with holes for a spoiler Price: $50 Item: sr20 stock 370cc injectors Condition: used Price: $40 Item: sr20det stock intercooler with some piping Condition: used Price: $40 Contact me on 0457 354 030 after 3:30pm monday - friday due to work anytime on the weekend
  13. Silvia s14 dash

    Item: nissan silvia s14 dash suit series 1/2 Description: when i purchased my silvia the dash came with the car for extra and had planned on putting it in my car due to my current one being ripped but now going to try and find a carbon dash to suit my s14 have seen some around and don't need this one anymore, condition is good no rips or tears Price: $200 ono Location: South Willing to post: No Contact: 0457 354 030 after 3:30pm from Monday - Friday due to work anytime on weekends
  14. s14 drivers door

    I have a drivers side door for an S14 in perfect condition, fresh red paint never been fitted since new paint call or txt for more info 0479071505
  15. WTB S14 / S15 stock turbo QLD

    Hey guys, Looking for a stock s14 or s15 turbo in good condition. Pickup around Brisbane preferably or post. Thanks, Hugo.
  16. Let me address something really quick Yes i had a mint s14 track car with killer reliable Sr setup yes i re-shelled into 350z vert yes i parted it out due to a failed relationship and losing my house yes i f**ked around with a heap of shit box's for a year or so working part time with f**k all cash to finish anything. Now i moved back to my home town and working full time at my old job. Sold up everything and started fresh. Here it is The kranzes were awesome but i didnt want to buy a heap more of them, and didnt want to destroy them so they have moved on. The front got a cut And then tubed it all together, used some trick rose joints to make most of it adjustable and get the fit just right. And a bit nicer than just some bolted up tube. Just finished removing seam sealer and sound deadener from wheel archs and bay, finished stitch welding one side but got other side to go then engine bay will get painted. Rear copped a pretty decent chop aswell, got some more i want to take out tho.
  17. Hi, Currently fitting Plazmaman plenum, fuel rail, throttle body, and turbo smart fuel reg and ID1000s... and have a few minor issues. Has anyone had experience fitting a Plazmaman intake manifold. It bolts up to the lower part of he factory runners fine, but there are no provisions for throttle cable. How did you run yours and where did you mount the fixed part of the cable? It come with a remote mount block for the idle control, where is the best place to mount this? I plan to use the factory steel fuel lines, whats the best way to change the ends to JIC to fit up speed flow fittings? Any extra advise on where to place things in the engine bay would be appreciated also, eg fuel reg etc Thanks in advance, Martin
  18. 3x nismo 740cc Injectors for sale, Brand New in Box Need them gone! $350ono please feel free to contact me 0423 775 125 cheers Scott if you require pics please message me and ill send
  19. WTB S14 manual surround

    In need of a manual surround for my s14. I found one on taarks.com but not really wanting to pay $100
  20. RB25 S14 Daily

    K, so after watching Mighty Car Mods and their Cuore, I was kinda tempted to get one. Cheap to buy, cheap to register, insure and fill up and what not. I had a mate working at a car auction place and he said that they had a Cuore for sale real cheap, so I was like "yeah sick, I'll come have a look". Went there, walked around, couldn't find it. I asked a dude and he did't have a clue so I was a bit confused haha. As we were walking back down to the front, I saw a s2 s14 sitting in the yard. I asked the guy if it was for sale and he said it's one of the other employers cars and that he might sell it. Winning! So we went to talk to the dude and he was kinda keen to sell it. Went and had a look at it. It was stock as a rock sr20det. I was super keen until I looked inside and saw it was auto! We did some talking and ended up getting it for $3700. Bargain! The paint was pretty shitty and it had 297,000 on the clock. On the way home from the car yard, Had to take it for a test skid. I couldn't drive it coz I was on my P's at that time. she cut a few loops haha. I was set on doing a manual conversion myself, but I wasn't too sure. I had a s1 r33 in the backyard too that I was working on and my mates and my brother just said put the 25 in the 14. I was intrigued and after doing some research, I found some McKinney Motorsport solid engine mounts. This meant I could use the standard cross member which was nice. No F'ing around with power steering. Ahh, bugger it, too much typing. Here's some photo's of my time with the car. Enjoy.
  21. NEW RE55 for sale

    For Sale New Bridgestone RE55 225-40-18 x 4. Great tyres, are stored in plastic wrapping and in garage away from the weather. Selling as they won't fit over my new wheels. Price: $1200 ono
  22. Kazama rear toe arms s14/s15

    Hi Guys, Cleaning out garage and have a set of rear Kazama toe arms for s14/s15. Condition is used as per pictures below. Some scuffs on the paint and the rubber boots all in tack. $130 + postage Located in SE Suburbs. PM if you are interested. Cheers, Pete
  23. hey guys if anyone has any front bars in red to suit series 2 (s14a) could you please pm me located in vic but willing to look into other avenues, cheers boys and girls