FenrirWC

Not sure if it was mentioned before but have you tested the car in it's current state? if so maybe provide some details on how it currently handles and how you would like it to change. An example would be had good turn in at corner entry but uneasy transition at apex, oversteer at corner exit or the car is twitchy with heavy under steer under acceleration etc. just saying you could spend alot and change heaps of parts when you may not need to. Also out of curiosity is this grip racing circuit based/time attack/autocross or a mix of all

Ok thanks for the info guys guess I will just have to change my plans slightly

thanks Pmod protecting the vacuum line is a good idea, I thought it would probably be alright on its own as long as it wasn't touching any sharp metal edges that might cut it didnt think of the line actually getting squashed. I should probably rephrase that I know there is a rubber grommet that feeds wiring to the ecu i believe through the firewall behind the glove box however when i removed the glovebox to install the wideband wires I found the AC or Heater system sitting there which prevents me from even finding where the wires actually come through. Was hoping others on here might of known a few other places that would be fine to run wires apart from the main ones as I don't want to drill any holes.

Hi Guys just after some advice on where to run wires and vacuum lines through the firewall if you wanted to install additional sensors such as wideband sensor, air temp sensor and vacuum for a MAP sensor. Was hoping to use the factory wiring grommet behind the glovebox but I don't think there is much hope of adding any more wires there. Apart from the other factory grommets I can see near the accelerator pedal and the lil one behind the plenum just above the clutch pedal (which doesn't look big enough for anything more than a vacuum line). Are there any others that could be used? How have you guys done your wiring for widebands and other sensors?

I've seen a fair few of your posts john you do know a fair bit about tuning and agree with what you are saying but also like Tucker said 18psi for me is more of a safety net in my mind due to 98 being the only available fuel and that I am also considering the option of tuning it myself. the gtx2867r seems to be the turbo for what I am chasing both power/boost/response wise (from the few graphs i have seen tends to hit 20psi+ around 3800-4000) as well as having the option to go for more power later if I choose to. If I do decide to try tune it myself and I need to ask for some advice might send you a pm if that's cool.

I'm trying to decide if i wanna go turbo upgrade at the moment as well with a target of 250kw and don't really want to run more than 18psi atm. From looking at the compressor maps for the gtx2863r and gtx2867r and doing quick maths the 2863 would need a bout 22-23 psi (assuming mass flow rate would be roughly 38ft-lbs) while the 2867 would be 18psi (MFR of 34-35ft-lbs). based this on a stock sr20det with normal cams and a rev limit of 7000rpm running 98oct fuel. Of course maths above wont be entirely correct due to real world conditions and other variables but In case of the OP mentioning they only wanted 18-20psi as well thought i would share.

My mistake saw that you didnt want oil cooler lines didnt think about keeping the filter where it is. Relocation of the filter is usually something people go for when using a oil filter block/plate as it can make an oil filter change nice and easy as varus said however Pmods advice is probably more suited to what you want to do

ahh just gonna go and say Taarks as you would be able to just thread an oil temp sensor into the vvl port seeing as you wont be using it. Also comes with fittings which is good http://www.taarks.com/product_p/taark-oilblockv2-sr.htm

This seems like a good place to ask and saves starting a new thread so, for those that have gone ahead with inbay intercoolers like the OP I would like to know how did you make the lower mounting bracket? Im guessing its a single bar that supports both the intercooler and radiator? just after a few ideas as I've thought of doing something similar myself.

Well first question is what is your new turbo? as this may change the type of cams you want to run but poncams are usually a good place to start. as for the poncam 11.5 lift being ok for VCT it should be fine from what was discussed in another thread before the real killer for the VCT unit is actually stiffer springs (like BC springs) however some people run these and they are fine while other units wear out sooner. My advice if your going to install new camshafts I recommend you at least replace your springs and retainers while your at it.

tbh you probably want 225/45/17 as its a closer rolling diameter not 225/40. also 225/45 is easier to find

also the f20c and f22c from the honda s2000

another one is otomoto.com.au

This started happening to mine and turned out my battery was loosing charge/no good did't really care only had a CCA of 280 i think so i just replaced the battery with a new/better one and that seemed to fix the issue. May work for you may not could try charging the battery to see if that fixes the issue or even just disconnect the terminals for 5 mins. It could also be a door/boot isn't quite shut properly or one of the sensors in the doors is wearing out (happened to another vehicle a friend owned).

Right well install is all done nothing to major just a headache when your socket wrench decides to cark it about 5 minutes in ha ha. Anyway Radiator fits well with the stock shroud for those concerned and while I did have to force the fitment a little to get the top left screw in it was easy enough to not worry over. For the Fan undo 4 bolts, remove old fan and replace with the gktech one and line up the four bolts. Also helpful hints make sure the fan is level and when you install it and make sure the GKtech sticker or carving is facing away from the motor ( so when you stand at the front of the car looking at the engine you can read it) as this is the right way to put it on, don't know if it is even possible to install it the other way around but just making it clearer for others. Install took about 3-4ish hours for me but this was the first time I did the job which also included a wrench breaking and alot of stuffing around. BTW found the coolant drain bolt on the block but there was no hope of me getting to it so didn't bother.