PoppinFresh1234

i don't beleive they have fuel cut or boost cut.

Idles smooth it just idles high like 1500rpm and then drops to 1050rpm, is intermittent, doesn't seem to matter if hot/cold.

after adjusting the tps within specs it had even worse of a miss under load, so i put it back to .76v where it was. is it possible because my voltage at WOT is low at 3.88v that when at WOT under load its affecting the timing up top? I have not checked the timing yet, will have a look on the weekend. Is not a coilpack problem as it was doing it with oem coilpacks aswell. Gonna gap the plugs down to .6 and see how it goes

instead of using a standard pulley buy a harmonic balancer pulley remover, claw type pulleys for getting off a crank pulley arn't ideal.

Car: S15 Sr20det Car has been having a miss under high load (ie if im in 4th and sitting on 80 and boot it, when it comes on full boost about 4000rpm it has a real bad miss and then just powers through it) Plugs are copper and gapped to .65 and has Splitfires. Was doing this before coilpacks were replaced. Engine was idleing high so adjusted tps voltage to .45v (was at .7v) and sits at 3.88v WOT. I noticed the top wire had 0.05v and the bottom wire had just over 5v. I am assuming the top wire is the ground and shouldnt have any voltage and the bottom wire is the sense wire and should be reading just above 12v? Idle has dropped down to about 1050rpm with idle screw wound all the way in and the iacv has been cleaned numerous times. All vac line under intake have been replaced and plenum gasket and runner gasket. HD clamps on all the intercooler piping. Have checked for Vac leaks by disconnecting tps and spraying aero start around all joins and gaskets with no change to the idle. Mods: Haltech Platinum Pro, Fuel reg, injector pump. 3076 etc. Engine is fresh with MLS headgasket studs forged bottom end etc. Any help would be appreciated.

you dont need to run the solenoid with solid gears but theres no need for removing it anways. straight replacement except u will lose a little bit of power as ur getting rid of your varibale timing control

Once your battery gets below about 4 volts its f**ked and cannot be recharged. Also a battery can have Full charge and still have a poor state of health. If it was starting fine before you left its most likely your battery is farked

yeah if you could get him to msg me or call me on 0408503631 would be good.

FYI you can get the transponder from nissan for around $170 and then another $100 to program it.

Have an S15. Front Left calliper has a seized piston and rear left has a slow leaking seal. Car is a daily but plan on getting burried with it. Should I replace both callipers and be done with it or upgrade to R33 brakes?

yeah mate thats vct rattle once it starts ticking theres no going back. ive gone through two of them. there is a solenoid just left of it that delivers oil. can test it with a couple wires as its just an on/off solenoid. I got one from Taarks for about $400. Or you could go aftermarket non vct cam gear. Also when u pull the rocker cover off u may aswell take the upper timing chain guide out.

Just had a good look. and idles fine with a/c off. idles fine with a/c on. idle drops to 500 when compressor is cutting in and out. Am thinking compressor is on its way out. Also when idleing compressor cuts in and out about every 4-5 seconds even with windows open and car still hot inside.

Dont have a laptop

ok cheers don't have either will get it booked in for next week cheers for the help

Car Idles at around 950RPM and when compressor cuts in it drops to 500RPM. I'm able to spin the compressor by hand with minimal drag. Have cleaned IACV,throttle body, checked for vac leaks, tightened BOV spring pressure and still no difference. I am Running a Haltech Platinum Pro Plug In. I'm thinking this a IACV problem, or could it be a tuning problem? Is there any way to bench test IACV. Thanks in advance.