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Everything posted by Skepticism

  1. Without a doubt some sort of formula car. If we're talking actual baller status, ex Ferrari F1 cars are usually a good bet - Ferrari provides servicing to customers, albeit at truly bum-penetrating costs.. e.g. wreck the front wing on a kerb, enjoy your $700,000 bill. Ignoring the totally unrealistic options, I'd probably pick up an outdated formula 3 or something, surely can pick up one for less than 50k and do sub 1:30 SMSP all day. Or maybe a Radical SR8. Then add a turbo if I get bored and kill myself doing hill climbs :| But yeah, by comparison, any sort of road car is pleb status for track Daily, I still like classic cars. So I guess a Toyota GT2000 or Miura if we're talking stupid money If we're just talking 100% pay rise or something, prolly an R34 GT-R. The porsche would still be better track car - even though I can't really love Porsches, they're still one of the few manufacturers that builds cars that are really trackable out of the factory
  2. Why stop at EVO/GTR brembos? Next logical progression:
  3. GTR prices

    Oh really.. basing this on inspections in person, or just from photos? What's been wrong with them? I've heard that the ones that spent too long in Japan tend to be rusting themselves apart
  4. Tramlining on the road with 265/35/18 semis

    +13 seems pretty reasonable.. but you could still try decreasing your scrub radius by switching to smaller spacer / no spacer. as long as the tyres won't rub on anything... other thing to look out for is bump steer.. i.e. car isn't too low, geometry from adjustable arms etc. Bump steer behaves like the name implies - when suspension is compressed, say from a sudden bump in the road, the wheel toes out, so the car steers in whatever direction. Check if happens more under braking as well.
  5. GTR prices

    You would think Aussie prices would vaguely track inline with Japan prices. Otherwise the local market would be flooded with recent imports. So my guess is that Japanese ppl might be holding on to them, hopeful that USA buyers will pay a premium in a few years, which reduces supply and increases prices.. We could be witnessing the start of an asset bubble, or it could really be going the way of Hakos, air cooled 911s, etc A bit annoying since my next car is possibly an r32. As long as prices don't get too cray. That said, most of the local GTRs going for 20k+ have had work done, 2860 variants etc, I don't necessarily think the prices on those have increased much. And I'd rather buy a modded one tbh, so dgaf.
  6. Tramlining on the road with 265/35/18 semis

    What offset are your front wheels? including spacers
  7. Hard street driving is much sketchier than hard track driving. There's no lovely big runoff area if something goes wrong. You don't really want fade to be an issue, last thing you want is to become a memorial cross stuck on a tree/pole/cliff
  8. Cold Shifting

    fark... can't remember if I'm running lightweight shockproof or MT90. No real change in how the box feels though and 1st syncro is still as rubbish as when I bought it. Then again, an old, worn out box will usually feel the same 3 years on. Not that I'd know from experience... Anyway, you might be on to something there sweefu... Wikipedia reckons this Reading some other sites, seems that the GL-5 additives will prolong life of gears and shafts but will wear out synchros.
  9. Which S chassis do I buy?!

    I always liked S14s more than S15s.
  10. S14 shroud into an S15

    if its in pieces, maybe just zip tie it back together, lol
  11. Selling my Starion or swap for a S14/15

    Cos they are quite ugly mate haha. Also price is probably a little to high. If it was 7-8k you would probably get more interest. Probably better off just holding onto it. My cordia owed me 20k ended up selling it for 5k. Sif, I quite like them. Maybe because I played too much Live For Speed over the years tho, haha. Personally, while I'm considering buying a track car at the moment, I don't know a whole lot about Starions and would rather stick with a known quantity, because I'm not mechanically competent and only really know about S chassis. I suspect it might take a while to sell this, not because 16k is too high (dunno really), moreso that it might take a bit of time to find a buyer. Also Brisbane is has less ppl than Syd or Melb.
  12. s15 break upgrade option

    I'll take your word for pfc over hc800 since you've tried both, I'm just trying to suss out whether there's a setup difference that could explain poor modulation, as hc800 is usually well reviewed.
  13. s15 break upgrade option

    Maybe due to pads not broken in correctly.
  14. s15 break upgrade option

    Another thing, rebuilding calipers, I would personally not go with "TOG" branded ebay kits when OEM hardware is basically same price http://www.taarks.co...uildkit-z32.htm
  15. s15 break upgrade option

    Maybe you guys some setup differences... braided lines, BMC stopper? Both on BM50?
  16. HFM 264 11.9 Cams from Gktech

    paying for cam gears + a tuner's time is going to be far more expensive in the end, so it's a false economy..
  17. Advice/Opinions on Respray

    f**king expensive. Do they mix human kidneys in with the paint or something? Or it really does take that many hours to do just a bonnet and roof. Lol.
  18. Advice/Opinions on Respray

    +1 on the flaking paint.. I wonder if we can get a group discount
  19. Should i work on my S14 Q?

    Plenty of wheels in 4x114.3 .. a few major JDM-yo brands even do up to 18" if that floats your boat. If you're cool with reps then there's XXR, Rota etc. Brake upgrades are nearly as easy on 4x as well.
  20. drive tonight anyone?

    skidpan day maybe? (there's a proper trackday coming up but I'm too lazy to get new wheels and tyres AND install new brakes AND roll guards)
  21. Nah.. I said SI units.. not HP / ft-lbs.... not hugely important though. 1/5252 is just a conversion factor due to using non-SI units. Power (Watts) = Torque (Newton metres) * Speed (radians per second)
  22. @ #2 - engine power is torque multiplied by RPM. If you're using SI units it's literally power = torque * engine speed. So if you make 200Nm from 2000rpm to 4000rpm, you will be making exactly twice the power at 4000rpm as you do at 2000rpm. And so on. You'll notice from before/after dyno sheets that bigger camshafts basically make more power by moving torque curve over to the right /higher rpm